Opinions
DOXA offers two similar models inspired by the brand’s pioneering dive watches from the late 1960s. But how do they differ, and which one should you go for?
By Steven Rogers
European Editor
If you’ve been seduced by DOXA’s storied dive watch past, its immediately identifiable aesthetic, and its choice of colorful dials and straps, then you’re probably close to asking yourself: Which DOXA model should I buy?
Well, if you’re looking for something simple but dripping with DOXA DNA, then the SUB 200 is the watch for you. A chronograph packing a bit of urban chic? Then the SUB 200 C-GRAPH would be your best bet. If you’re a deep diver and exceptional water resistance is your priority, then the SUB 1500T, rated to 150 bar, should be your pick.
But there are two models DOXA offers that, on first viewing, look almost identical: The SUB 300 and SUB 300T. Such is their apparent similarity that it might leave you wondering: “What’s the difference between them, and which one suits me best?”
Shared Traits
Let’s first look at these two models’ commonalities. For a start, both the SUB 300 and SUB 300T are inspired by the brand’s pioneering SUB 300 dive watches launched in the late 1960s. The SUB 300 is, at least on an aesthetic level, a faithful reinterpretation of the SUB 300 “No T” that kicked off the SUB 300 line in 1967, and the SUB 300T does a similar job in reinterpreting the SUB 300T Conquistador launched two years later in 1969.
Historically, the SUB 300 line was adopted by the likes of diving legend Jacques Cousteau, the US Navy, and the Swiss Army. It has also enjoyed literary mentions, like in the novels of Clive Cussler, for example, and appearances on the silver screen – Robert Redford’s character wore a SUB 300T in the 1975 movie Three Days of the Condor.
The original SUB 300 line was revolutionary for introducing practical features such as a patented, unidirectional bezel with a dual dive time and no-decompression time limit scale. The bezel’s prominent notches enabled manipulation even while wearing diving gloves. At the same time, the bright orange dial and oversized minute hand improved readability in the murky ocean depths. Both the modern-day SUB 300 and SUB 300T feature these innovations.
The contemporary SUB 300 and SUB 300T models are not just limited to orange dials: Six dial colors are available for each model – “Aquamarine” turquoise, “Divingstar” yellow, “Caribbean” navy blue, “Searambler” gray, “Sharkhunter” black, and, of course, the “Professional” orange. In both cases, they can be paired with a beads-of-rice steel bracelet that harks back to the original SUB 300 line, a rubber strap in the same tone as the dial, or a black rubber strap.
Also uniting the SUB 300 and SUB 300T is the movement powering their time and date indications: The robust and reliable ETA 2824-2 automatic caliber.
Still, There Are Plenty of Differences
While they share many similarities, the SUB 300 and SUB 300T differ on a variety of fronts. And the first to come to mind are the case, crystal, and bracelet proportions.
The SUB 300’s stainless steel case is 42.5mm wide, 45mm lug-to-lug, and has a thickness of 13.4mm. Its sapphire crystal protrudes in a “box” style, adding a retro feel to it. The SUB 300T, on the other hand, has the same 42.5mm diameter, but it has a shorter lug-to-lug distance of 44.5mm. This difference of only 0.5mm makes the lugs of the SUB 300T look chunkier, while the SUB 300’s case is thinner and appears more refined.
The SUB 300T has a more prominent bezel, contributing to its 14mm height and making it a chunkier proposition than the SUB 300. But the SUB 300T’s sapphire crystal is flat, sitting flush with the bezel, which creates the illusion the watch is thinner than it is. This flat crystal also means that the date display at 3 o’clock can be viewed from all angles. The edged profile of the SUB 300’s box crystal, in comparison, can obscure reading of the date from some perspectives.
Additionally, the SUB 300’s bracelet is slightly thinner, with the rice beads bearing a flatter profile, while the SUB 300T’s counterpart is thicker with a more rounded profile to the beads.
Weight, Water Resistance, and Dive Credentials
If the SUB 300 is the slightly more refined version of the burly SUB 300T, then that contrast in appearances is backed up by a simple weigh-in: The SUB 300 on a beads-of-rice bracelet weighs 160g, while the SUB 300T on its steel bracelet weighs heavier at 194g.
The SUB 300 has a decent water resistance of 300m, which should be enough for most. The SUB 300T, in contrast, should appeal to those more serious about their diving as it not only has a greater water resistance – 1200m – but it also features an automatic helium release valve.
While both watches feature a no-decompression time limit scale on the outer bezel, the SUB 300’s uses meters. The two-digit indices make for a cleaner bezel, albeit one with the numbers spaced out unevenly. The SUB 300T’s “no deco” scale is in feet, producing a visually more packed bezel, but one where the indices are more evenly distributed.
At this point, it is a question of what matters most to you: Aesthetics or a practical application in the water? And, if you are going to put the watch’s patented bezel to use for diving, you’ll want to know your meters from your feet.
Chronometer Certification & Price Point
While the SUB 300T’s ETA 2824-2 automatic movement has been well regulated and tested in-house, DOXA raised the status of the ETA 2824-2 inside the SUB 300 by having it COSC-certified as a chronometer to ensure its timekeeping accuracy is top-notch. For many, this represents a considerable added value.
And that brings us to the price point. The SUB 300’s COSC certification contributes to its higher price tag, with the watch retailing for $2,450 on a rubber strap and $2,490 on a steel bracelet. That is $600 more than the SUB 300T, which retails for $1,850 (rubber strap) and $1,890 (bracelet). Looking at the DOXA collection as a whole, with no two models priced the same, it is clear that both the SUB 300 and SUB 300T have a strategic place in the brand’s price-point hierarchy.
So, Which Do I Choose?
The SUB 300 and SUB 300T are each cool-looking dive watch icons, packing a robust automatic caliber and boasting innovative features introduced by the SUB 300 line in the late 1960s.
The SUB 300 is lighter and thinner, with more refined lines, and its “box” sapphire crystal has a retro allure. The fact that it is based on the first-edition SUB 300 “No T” – the original SUB 300, if you will – and has chronometer-certified movement could also make it more appealing to collectors.
Heavier and a tad more muscular, but with a lower price tag, the SUB 300T has even more serious dive credentials, with its greater water resistance and automatic helium release valve. Of the two, then, the SUB 300T packs a bit more punch when worn as a tool watch.
But here’s a thought: Such is the scope to the mix-and-match dial and strap color options for both models, there is nothing to stop (funds permitting, of course) a SUB 300 with, say, a “Caribbean” blue dial on a beads-of-rice bracelet and a SUB 300T with, for example, a “Divingstar” yellow dial on ayellow rubber strap from sitting next to each other in the same watch collection.
For more information on the SUB 300 and SUB 300T, please visit DOXA’s website.
(Photography by Pierre Vogel)
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FAQs
What is the difference between a Doxa 300 and Doxa 300T? ›
The SUB 300 has a decent water resistance of 300m, which should be enough for most. The SUB 300T, in contrast, should appeal to those more serious about their diving as it not only has a greater water resistance – 1200m – but it also features an automatic helium release valve.
What size is Doxa 300T? ›Constructed from 316L stainless steel of the highest quality, the SUB 300T has a diameter of 42.5mm and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating.
What movement is in the doxa sub 300T? ›The Doxa SUB 300 is 42.5mm-wide with a 45mm lug-to-lug distance. The polished and brushed stainless steel case is 13.4mm-thick, and inside the watch is a Swiss Made ETA 2824-2 automatic movement that has been given a COSC Chronometer certification.
Is Doxa 300T COSC certified? ›The SUB 300's 42.5 mm case is made from the highest quality 316L stainless steel. The three-hand self-winding movement holds the prestigious COSC Certified Chronometer certification guaranteeing precision, robustness and reliability. It also provides a 38-hour power reserve. The date window is positioned at 3 o'clock.
What watch does Dirk Pitt wear? ›For thriller writer Clive Cussler, his adventurer hero Dirk Pitt could only wear one watch, the model favoured by his creator: an orange dialled Doxa SUB 300T.
Is Doxa a luxury watch brand? ›Since 1898, DOXA has been producing some of the finest Swiss luxury sports timepieces on the market, with many of its models becoming firm favourites for collectors, beginners and professionals alike.
What watch did Jacques Cousteau wear? ›For starters, it comes with the most prestigious cosign possible: Doxa was Jacques Cousteau's brand of choice. He loved the watches so much that he sold them Stateside through his company, U.S. Divers.
How much is a Doxa sub 300T Searambler? ›Doxa Sub 300T Searambler for $1,749 for sale from a Private Seller on Chrono24.
Does the Doxa 300T have a helium escape valve? ›In 1969, DOXA launched the SUB 300T Conquistador, the first general public diver's watch equipped with a helium release valve.
How much does a Doxa sub 300t weigh? ›The second claim is certainly true, as this watch weighs in at just 45g without the strap, a full 40% lighter than its stainless steel sibling, which tips the scales at a downright obese 75g. The dial is the classic DOXA orange, known as the “Professional” colorway.
What is the accuracy of DOXA? ›
Movement. Doxa is using a COSC certified ETA 2824-2 automatic movement in the Sub 300, meaning its 38 hours of reserve will provide you -4/+6 seconds of accuracy per day.
What movements do DOXA use? ›Doxa have opted to use a COSC Certified version of the industry standard ETA 2424-2 automatic movement, which has a power reserve of 38 hours, with a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz).
Are Doxa watches made in China? ›EVERY DOXA IS SWISS MADE.
Is COSC certified worth it? ›The COSC is vital to Swiss watchmaking as it ensures a level of excellence is maintained within the industry. Only the most accurate and well-made timepieces receive the COSC Certification, meaning that only about 6% of all Swiss watches exported are certified.
Who owns Doxa watches? ›The Jenny family of Switzerland now owns the brand. Doxa began production of 92 limited edition Sub1000t series watches to support Project AWARE in 2008.
What kind of watch does Guy Fieri wear? ›Fans of Guy Fieri are well familiar with the orange-faced watch he frequently wears. The Doxa SUB 750T GMT Professional is now available thr...
What watch does Steve Jobs wear? ›What Kind of Watches Was in Steve Jobs's Watch Collection? Despite his immense wealth, Steve Jobs was known for his minimalist sense of style, and many of his watches reflect that, including his Seiko Quartz that he was famously photographed wearing in 1984.
What watch does Keanu Reeves wear in the Matrix? ›In the film, Keanu is seen wearing a simple Casio G-Shock Ref. DW-5600C-1V. Today Casio still makes the watch, selling them for $69.95 USD on their website.
Which is the No 1 watch brand in world? ›Patek Philippe consistently tops the list of best watch brands in the world and is a status symbol like no other. Founded in 1839, the Swiss company is the last family-owned independent watch manufacturer in Geneva.
Do Doxa watches increase in value? ›Doxa watches would typically increase in value for models sold during the Marei era when all models were limited editions. Only time will tell how well the current offerings hold their value.
What brand of watch did Elvis wear? ›
In real life, Elvis had a watch collection that at times could rival his car collection. He wore Hamilton, Bulova and even Rolex. When he was in Germany in the U.S. Army, he wore a pink gold Omega Constellation (from 1958-1960) that had a black dial.
What watch did Jeff Bezos wear? ›243-55-7-91. Jeff Bezos is often spotted wearing his Ulysse Nardin Dual Time. A surprising choice for someone who gravitates towards the extraordinary, the Ulysse Nardin Dual Time is seen more by horology enthusiasts as a low-key timepiece despite its fancy price tag.
What watches Putin wear? ›Vladimir Putin wears a Patek Philippe similar to this model
In what may be choreographed propaganda exercises rather than random acts of kindness, Putin has also gifted several of his incredible timepieces to members of the public.
Vacheron Constantin brought the model back last year, though, and the market already seems much more welcoming of the watch. The picture of Pitt wearing the reissued timepiece was posted to Instagram (where it was spotted by GQ) by Lorel Monroy of Feldmar Watch Company, an authorized dealer in Los Angeles.
What is largest Doxa watch? ›SUB 300T. The big dog of Doxa reissues, the SUB 300T is based on the venerable 1969 SUB 300T Conquistador, which included the aforementioned dual-scale rotating bezel with depth in feet (not meters), and is thus compatible with the US Navy dive tables.
Is Doxa Sub 200 worth it? ›As a package, while it lacks the funky oddball charm of the Doxas I've long known and loved, the Sub 200 is a really solid offering. As an extension of Doxa into a lower price point, I think they've done an excellent job. It's not perfect, but when you factor for $990 on the steel bracelet, it is seriously good.
What movement is in the Doxa Sub 600T? ›Finally, beating away at the heart of the 600T is the Sellita SW200-1 movement. This Swiss-made automatic movement comes with 38 hours of autonomy, 28,800 vph, and has reliability front and centre.
Is a helium escape valve necessary? ›Once in the watch, this gas can't escape quickly enough, unless the watch is equipped with a helium release valve to let the helium escape from the watch during lowering the pressure. This is necessary to prevent the watch from exploding during decompression.
What is the purpose of a helium escape valve on a watch? ›Found in professional diving watches, a helium escape valve is fitted with the purpose of protecting the case from damage during deep sea diving. These are more common in mechanical watches than watches that are powered by quartz movements, and usually feature in watches that have greater water resistance.
Why do you need a helium escape valve? ›Helium escape valves keep diving watches from getting damaged during saturation diving. During the decompression process, this safety valve allows any helium molecules that may have entered a watch to escape.
Is doxa a opinion? ›
Doxa means belief or opinion. Episteme in contrast, means real knowledge, based on reasoning and scientific thinking.
What does doxa stand for? ›Doxa (Ancient Greek: δόξα; from verb δοκεῖν, dokein, 'to appear, to seem, to think, to accept') is a common belief or popular opinion. In classical rhetoric, doxa is contrasted with episteme ('knowledge').
Are Doxas good watches? ›The consensus is that Doxa makes good quality watches.
It has 1200M water resistance, a helium release valve and a Swiss-made ETA automatic movement with a power reserve indicator. Although Doxa watches are colourful and have fun names, they are designed as tools to be used in extreme environments.
Jacques-Yves Cousteau wearing a Doxa. While Cousteau is without doubt DOXA's most famed real-world wearer, the brand also has a powerful fictional advocate.
What is the bezel diameter of a Doxa sub 300? ›The bezel outer diameter is about 36 mm and the actual visible dial is approximately 27 mm. The bezel action is very good, with loud clicks and no back-play. Doxa uses a two layer bezel system with markings for dive timings as well decompression markers. It is a unique design and I like it.
How tall is the Doxa 300? ›The 300, with its boxed sapphire, has a height of 13.4mm. The 300T, with its flat sapphire, comes in at 14mm.
What are the big 3 watch brands? ›Also known as the 'Big Three', the holy trinity of watches includes Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin.
Who is the largest watch manufacturer in the world? ›The Swatch Group is the world's largest watch company and employs about 36,000 people in 50 countries. The group owns the Swatch product line and other brands, including Blancpain, Breguet, Certina, ETA, Glashütte Original, Hamilton, Harry Winston, Longines, Mido, Omega, Rado, and Tissot.
Where is Doxa headquarters? ›DOXA Insurance Holdings's headquarters is located at 1502 Magnavox Way, Fort Wayne.
What is the most accurate mechanical watch in the world? ›If you are looking for something “Grand Seiko quality” from Japan's Citizen, then look no further than the very impressive Citizen Caliber 0100 — which also happens to include the world's most accurate self-contained timepiece movement.
How long does a COSC certificate last? ›
How long does the COSC retain the results of its measurements ? The results for to a chronometer are kept for 10 years, from the day of the end of the tests. Beyond this period, no more information can be issued about a chronometer.
How hard is the COSC exam? ›The COSC examination is a very very hard examination. Luckily, I have the whole realm of orthopaedic surgeons (>100), so I have a great overall knowledge of the specialty and sub-specialties, but it still requires tons of work. I truly believe that anyone can anything, as long as they want it bad enough.
How old is doxa watches? ›Since 1889 DOXA watches have been designed and manufactured in Switzerland, with their award winning and innovative designs continually pushing the bounderies of watchmaking. In 1967 DOXA created the iconic SUB 300 PROFESSIONAL with it's famous orange dial.
How to date a Doxa watch? ›For Doxa, the first two digits of the case serial number mark the year (only for watches made between 1940 and 1965).
Who owns Helios watch? ›Helios- The Watch Store is India's largest multi-brand premium watch retailer introduced by TITAN Company Limited.
Does the doxa 300T have a helium release valve? ›In 1969, DOXA launched the SUB 300T Conquistador, the first general public diver's watch equipped with a helium release valve.
How much does the Doxa 300T weigh? ›The second claim is certainly true, as this watch weighs in at just 45g without the strap, a full 40% lighter than its stainless steel sibling, which tips the scales at a downright obese 75g. The dial is the classic DOXA orange, known as the “Professional” colorway.
Is Doxa a Swiss brand? ›EVERY DOXA IS SWISS MADE
The Swiss Made label embodies a concept of quality and trustworthiness that has been forged over the years. Today, it continues to prove the only true reference and the best assurance of customer satisfaction in the world of watchmaking.
The DOXA SUB 200 harks back to a golden era in recreational diving timepieces. Released in 2019, it's an affordable Swiss-made 200m water-resistant three-hander with an ETA 2824-2 movement, from a venerable brand with a rich association with dive watches.
What does the Greek term Doxa mean? ›Doxa (Ancient Greek: δόξα; from verb δοκεῖν, dokein, 'to appear, to seem, to think, to accept') is a common belief or popular opinion. In classical rhetoric, doxa is contrasted with episteme ('knowledge').
Who owns Swiss Military brand? ›
Hanowa and Swiss Military — Hanowa are brands of Hanowa Aktiengesellschaft (AG)/Ltd. Möhlin, Switzerland, which designs and makes timepieces, particularly wristwatches. The company's name is an acronym for HAns NOll WAtches, a clear reference to the founder of the company.